By Adhid Miri, PhD

Traveling is an extraordinary experience every person needs to try. It reveals a new and exciting world, focuses your inner strength, inspires, and presents unforgettable adventures.

Away from home, one comes to better understand what “home” is and what home means. One does not fully understand what it means be a citizen of the United States until they have seen it from a distance, from a completely different country.

My recent travel experience to Northern Iraq, Kurdistan region, and part of the Nineveh Plain area combined many experiences in one. Travel doesn’t have to focus solely on the beautiful and the expected. It can be all about taking you to new places and seeing the unexpected.

In large part, the purpose of the trip was to assess the current situation in Iraq and to lay the foundations of a branch office for the Chaldean Community Foundation and Chaldean American Chamber of Commerce in the homeland.

To that end, I met with local citizens, politicians, bishops, local leaders, NGO representatives, and experts, visiting several towns, monasteries, and historic landmarks.

I had the opportunity to meet bishops Warda, Mikhael, and Nicodemus. I met with Kurdish Parliament ministers, the Chairman of the Erbil Chamber of Commerce, and the district mayors of Alqosh, Telkaif and Ankawa. I also met with the KRG Prime Minister and KRG President chiefs of staff, the Jesuit Refugee Services (JRS) and other NGOs.

I was able to learn about Bishop Warda’s projects including Maryamana Hospital and the Catholic University of Erbil (CUE). I traveled to Alqosh, Tel-Keppe, Telesquf, Baqoofa, Shaqlawa, Duhok, Zakho, and Mar Matti Monastery. I visited Duhok, Zakho and the Mount Sinjar area. It was an extremely educational trip.

Prior to this visit, I and others have written extensively about the plight of Iraq’s beleaguered Christian minority, and many of the articles were featured in the Chaldean News. We have covered the destruction of World Heritage sites, demographic changes, violence against ethno-religious groups in Iraq, the corruption, the accountability, the moral responsibilities of world leaders, and the silence of the rest of the world on the matter.

Our evaluation remains that if the persecution continues against Christians and other religious groups in Iraq, and if the objectives of ISIS, Iran, Turkey, and other regional players are achieved, then these indigenous groups, some of the oldest ethno-religious groups in Iraq and Kurdistan, may completely vanish.

In this article I aim to highlight other aspects of my recent trip, so, let us explore the towns and traditions of Northern Iraq.

The Ancient and New Erbil

Not many cities in the world can compare to Erbil historically. Historians claim Erbil has been permanently inhabited since the 5th millennium B.C., making it one of the oldest continually lived-in cities in the world.

Erbil is so many things: it’s the people, the architecture, the culture, the sounds of the city, the smells, tastes of the food, and more.

With more than 7,000 years of recorded history, Erbil – or Hawler, as the locals call it – is the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan. It is a city with fantastic old bazaars and traditional cafés, which can all be visited in Erbil’s lively central square.

Visiting Erbil is not just about wandering around an ancient city. Erbil is a modern metropolis which, in recent years, has become a regional business hub, home to a large expat community and some of the best nightlife in the Middle East. It’s often compared to Beirut of the seventies.

The new Erbil is full of modern developments and modern residential subdivisions such as the dream city, the American, British, Italian, Lebanese, new empire world buildings, international hotels, restaurants. New, 21st century malls dot the landscape. There are also many empty skyscrapers under construction or abandoned.

In the center of it all is the towering Citadel (Qala’a). Erbil’s Citadel is a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2014 for being an astonishing example of a multilayered archaeological mound. Today overlooking a modern city that has grown around it over the centuries.

The Citadel (Qala’a) Square

I have traveled to Erbil several times. My favorite thing to do in Erbil is visiting its main Citadel square and enjoy a perfect sunny day at the main square which is a lively place miles away from the stereotype you may have of the region. This is where the Kurds meet, socialize, and hang out. It is always crowded with all kinds of people, from children to local young hipsters and old men in their traditional clothes.

The square is enjoyed by sitting on terraces from the many cafés around, which are always filled with people having chai and smoking shisha (Argilla). Here you can also observe the obsession the Kurds have with worry-beads.

You can see people playing with worry-beads all over the Middle East, but nowhere else it is as crazy as in Erbil and Iraqi Kurdistan in general. Traditionally, they used them for praying but then, they became a way to fight against stress, to the extent that it has become a habit which they can’t stop, the entire day. There is even a worry-bead market in the main square itself, one of the most interesting things to see in Erbil.

The inside of the Citadel (Qala’a) is not very exciting, composed of old deserted homes and alleys that nobody lives inside anymore. Around the square there are buildings under restoration, souvenir shops, where you can buy fridge magnets, carpets or even a coffee cup featuring Saddam Hussein. The views, however, are the best in Erbil, especially at sunset, when the orange light covers up the minaret and clock tower of the main square.

Erbil offers the inviting warmth of the Kurdish people and a friendly atmosphere. Erbil remains one of my favorite tours and I made so many friends who I’m still in contact with today.

Upon arrival to the Erbil Citadel square, there is a buzzing energy with folks and street merchants, along with a gauntlet of souvenir sellers to negotiate before stepping into the Qaisariah Souq marketplace.

The Qaisariah Souq (Bazar)

One must stroll the Qaisariah Souq (covered bazaar). Qaisariah means a “collection of shops” in Arabic. This maze of narrow alleys is a cultural attraction just as much as a traditional shopping venue - the souq is well-preserved to reflect the spirit of ancient times, local architecture, and traditional markets.

Walk through its narrow alleyways and enter an explosion of history, culture, trade, and craftsmanship. Lining the market’s ways are a variety of shops, and inside each shop are men and women selling a range of products, from spices to clothes, perfumes to art pieces, copper to leather, fabrics to jewelry stores, dried fruits, local cheeses, traditional Kurdish clothing, and village craft in a unique, old-time bazar atmosphere.

To enjoy all aspects of the Qaisariah Bazar, a local guide is a must. I am lucky to know Kak Burhan Bazzaz, who has operated fabric stores in the market for over 50 years. Bazzaz, is not simply a tour guide, but rather, the God Father of the Qaisariah market. Everyone knows Kak Burhan and he knows them. With Bazzaz beside me, I do not negotiate prices, I find the best products, and benefit from Kak Burhan’s deep discount prices.

A visit to Erbil won’t be complete without enjoying a cup of tea at Mam Khalil tea house inside the Qaisariah marketplace. Serving everyone from famous politicians to tourists and all the locals in general. Mam Khalil opened in 1952 and hasn’t been closed since. The most famous Kurdish intellectuals and politicians from other places in the Middle East have slurped sweet Kurdish tea in this hidden, cozy café, and visitors should do the same.

Mam Khalil Chaykhana has been managed by the owner’s son, Mohammed Khalil, after the death of his father. The place is so historic and precious that it tempted Mohammed to return from Greece after 15 years to serve tea and manage the historic Chaykhana.

Adhid Miri and a friend at the tea house

Another epic, historical café which you can visit is Machko Chai Khana (tea place). It was built into the wall of the Citadel, western part of the square. Machko Chai Khana Opened in 1940, it is older and much larger than Mam Khalil.

The exchange offices in Erbil are street stalls with no security. Locals have huge bundles of money on the counter, without a window, without surveillance and in the middle of the street. You can find a few money exchange stalls in the covered bazaar, but there is a specific market with plenty of them. Most stalls have Iraqi Dinars, old and new bank notes with Saddam’s pictures, and I saw a few tables with loads of Syrian notes with Bashar al-Assad’s face printed on them.

The Jamadany shop – the traditional Kurdish head piece, whose design changes across the region. The Klash workshop – where they make and sell the traditional hand-made Kurdish shoes are particularly interesting and lovely local spots. Beware, that although the Klashes (White Shoes) come in different sizes, there are no rights or lefts. I liked the colorful hand made products. They are worthy of a display at Saks 5th avenue!

Kabab Erbil

You cannot visit Erbil without trying the food especially the famous Kabab Erbil, on my list of the best places to eat in Erbil. You find entire streets packed with tens of fast-food restaurants which are all opened 24/7, here you will find the best Kabab in Erbil.

The best local kabab, arguably, is Kabab Yasin. Located in the grand covered Bazar market area is considered one of the best in Erbil. It is not the best restaurant, yet it serves the best Kabab. The owner beams with joy that world politicians, including then-Vice President Joe Biden visited the restaurant, ate his famed Kabab, and took extra for carryout!

This small kebab shop in the heart of the Grand Bazar has been there for at least decades. The walls are full of family photos on the wall, which appear to date back a century, one reason why Kebab Yasin is famous throughout Erbil.

This is a real bazar food experience. The food is simple and tasty, a good choice for Kabab lovers. The place is very small and extremely “rustic” in terms of hygiene, service, and comfort, but genuine and offering good food. Kabab is the only culinary delight you can enjoy in this restaurant. There is no menu, the friendly waiters help make our choice as far as quantity is concerned. Two choices available either Kabab or chicken tekka, both are delicious and well represented, price is good. The Kabab is very fatty, tastes good, crunchy, and crispy, and is served with a nice glass of yogurt drink followed by dark Kurdish tea.

Usually the restaurant is overcrowded and one must eat fast and leave to let others sit finishing their tea outside the restaurant. This location is probably the best kebab I have ever tasted. The portion was so large that I could not finish my dish. A must if you are in Erbil.

Food in Erbil is a fun experience to join in on the action but if you try Kabab elsewhere in the city don’t expect something less than special. It is just as good everywhere.

Masgouf: Iraq’s Favorite Dish in Kurdistan

Masgouf is a Mesopotamian meal eaten in Sumerian and Akkadian times. In essence, masgouf is a Mesopotamian cooking technique where a fleshy freshwater fish is roasted over a wood-fired oven or a wood bonfire circle. It takes 30-45 minutes to cook the fish evenly, based on its preferred weight, usually 5-7 lb. Masgouf is the national dish of Iraq.

Masgouf is also the dish that is served to foreign delegations visiting the country by Iraqi statesmen. A notable admirer of this dish was the former President of France, Jacques Chirac. Chirac apparently fell for masgouf during a visit to Iraq in a formal dinner held in his honor by Saddam Hussein.

Al-Masgouf of Ainkawa is a modern landmark restaurant near Um Al-Noor church in Erbil. The best freshwater fish is served here with great hospitality. The restaurant serves a variety of fish like the Daqooq carb, Basra Zubaidi, Al-Fao Jumbo Shrimp cooked in various styles: grilled, fried, oven-cooked (Tanoor), or by wood fire.

The restaurant is plush, clean, and full of courteous, prompt staff. The owner Thamir Abbas E’awaid is a retired physics teacher from Hilla aided by his two sons Wessam and Ali, who decided to move to Erbil and open this successful restaurant. I had some amazing, mouthwatering dishes here. From starters to deserts, ending with black tea and dates. Everything was perfect.

The fish is either clamped on the grill or mounted on spikes, then placed on the “fire altar,” a feature shared by all masgouf restaurants. This altar typically consists of a big open-air area centered by a raised, podium-like sandbox that is either round, octagonal, or sometimes rectangular. In the middle, there is a large fire of apricot tree logs. After 30-45 minutes of cooking, the masgouf is ready to be served with pickles, lemon, and olives.

The fish is marinated in olive oil, curcuma, salt, and tamarind, and is served with traditional garnishes like lime, tomatoes, chopped onions, and flat bread.

Alongside Masgouf, mango chutney with amba and tannour bread, which is shaped by hand and then placed on the sides of a hot cylindrical oven made from clay or mud. After 30-45 minutes of cooking, the masgouf is ready to be served with pickles, lemon, and olives.

Ankawa

Ankawa was one of the best places I visited in Erbil. Ankawa is not far from Erbil’s Citadel (5-6km).

Erbil and Ankawa district are dotted with interesting restaurants that serve amazing traditional and international cuisines. The local Kurdish names are quite interesting to translate, names such as: Manqal Jan Can Grill (table cooking on charcoaled grill), Dokaly Kabab (Smoked Kabab), Tabiekh Iraqi style Qoozi lamb, Osta Osman Gahlah-sher, a restaurant that serves male birds only (Ducks, Doves, Goose, Quails, pheasants, etc.). Their specialty is roosters, reflected boldly in their logo.

Finding a good bar or lounge in Iraq is surprisingly easy. There are many hangouts in the city of Erbil. Ankawa, Erbil’s Christian district which is home to many thousands of Chaldeans, is a wonderful destination and is home to the largest Christian community in Kurdistan. This town is packed with loads of liquor stores, gift shops, restaurants, cafés, churches, and of course hotels, where after dark the nightlife in Erbil switches on.

The area is very pleasant and safe to walk around, as you won’t experience the street chaos the Middle East is famous for. Moreover, if you are tired of Kurdish food, here you will find a large variety of international restaurants, including Indian, Italian, and Lebanese.

Mar Matti Monastery

This monastery established in the 4th century came to be well known only a few hundred years later. It was the most important Syrian Orthodox center in north Iraq and included a resident bishop.

The monastery is dedicated to Mar Matti, or Saint Matthew. It is superbly situated, on the slopes of Mount Maqloob looking out from the mountainside towards the Tigris River and the Mesopotamian plain.

Mar Matti Monastery is always regarded as a holy place. Mar Matti, the founder, is buried there together with many bishops. Pilgrims often collect soil from the ground as a blessing.

It is said that Saint Matti was born near Amid (Diyar Bakir) around the beginning of the 4th century. After the persecution of Julian, the Apostate (c.361) he settled on a mountain near Nineveh, (modern Mosul). He healed the sick. According to tradition, he converted the son of the king of Assyria, Behnam, and his daughter Sarah, to Christianity; consequently, Sarah’s leprosy disappeared.

In the present buildings of Mar Matti monastery some of the lower church walls apparently date back to the 12th/13th century. The main church is dedicated to Mar Matti and another one is dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

The monastery is currently maintained by the Syriac Orthodox Church and serves the small farming villages of Ba’ashiqa and Bahizani. Every year, Christians of various church denominations gather in the monastery on Sept. 18 to Commemorate the day of Mar Matti.

St. Matthew Monastery had rich libraries that had thousands of manuscripts throughout its long history. However, most of those manuscripts were lost to a huge fire in 480 A.D. and in the many attacks from many different enemies since. Today, there’s only 224 manuscripts left in its library. The oldest manuscript is a copy of the New Testament, and it dates to 1222 A.D

Despite all setbacks, the monastery has always maintained its importance and continues in existence to this day. In recent years, the church has undertaken much restoration work. Near the monastery one can see the cave of Mar Matti. Many hermits used to live in other caves around. A stunning site to see especially for anyone interested in history, archeology and religion.

In part II we will cover villages, towns, memories and more.

Special editing by Jacqueline Raxter and Rand Isaq.

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