A Journey Back to Tel Keppe

Rediscovering Roots in the Nineveh Plain

September 2023 marked a profound pilgrimage for me – a journey back to the cradle of my heritage, the Nineveh Plain in Iraq; particularly to Tel Keppe, the village where my family, the Karana family, has its roots in the Shangu district. This trip was a reconnection with the land that has shaped the identity of our people for generations.

History and Heritage

My journey through the Nineveh Plain, along with a group from Nineveh Rising, was akin to stepping into a living museum of our culture and history. In Tel Keppe, every corner whispered tales of the past, connecting me with generations of my family who once walked these streets. The village, although still suffering from the Daesh occupation, stood as a testament to the enduring legacy of our people.

I had the chance to attend Mass at Libbi’d Esho (Sacred Heart) Church in the center of the town, while also witnessing the destruction of our ancestral gravesite. I was hopeful when I learned that all the Daesh prisoners had been removed and that homes only cost between $5,000-$30K. There’s an opportunity for revival.

Venturing beyond Tel Keppe, I explored the ancient monasteries of Mar Matti, Mar Odishu, and Mar Oraha—each a repository of our spiritual heritage. The majestic Rabban Hormizd Monastery built in the mountains of Alqosh, with its ancient walls and majestic views, was a highlight, offering a glimpse into the devotional life of our ancestors.

Interwoven with these experiences were the stories from our past, particularly those of Saints Mar Bahnam and Mart Sarah from the 4th century, who fought battle after battle against their father-King of the region, until their lives were lost in Baghdida. These tales, more than just folklore, are integral to our collective identity, showcasing the resilience, faith, and strength of our people.

The journey through the Nineveh Plain also allowed me to embrace the majestic mountains of Nohadra, Amedia, and Dure. These regions, with their soaring peaks and lush valleys, offered a breathtaking panorama that was both awe-inspiring and humbling. In Nohadra (modern-day Dohuk), the mountains stood as silent guardians of history. Amedia, with its ancient fortress perched high upon a mountain, was a sight straight out of a historical epic. The mountains of Dure were like open arms, welcoming and nurturing, a reflection of the warmth and hospitality of our people where I spent the night singing songs in Sureth, drinking arak, and stargazing under our ancient skies.

A highlight of my trip was the opportunity to swim and hike in the canals of Dera Loka near the Turkish border. The unparalleled natural beauty of these areas and turquoise water was breathtaking. The clear waters and lush landscapes provided a stark contrast to the bustling cities of America and reminded me of the diverse beauty of our homeland. Amidst the serene landscapes and clear waters, I found a piece of untouched beauty with crisp air filled with the whispers of history. The views were simply spectacular.

Dolma, kebab, kubba hamouth, fattoush, kouzi, lemon and mint juice, kleicha, gamer…. the food was on another level. The culinary experiences on this journey were also deeply rooted in the land I was breathtakingly enjoying. Tasting fresh figs, pomegranates, dates, grapes, honey, and tahin from Baghdida, Barwar, Aradin, Nohadra, and other villages, was not just a delight to the senses but also a profound connection to the earth that has nourished our community for centuries. Each fruit bore the essence of our land, reminding me of the deep bond we share with this soil. They tasted sweeter, richer, more natural.

However, amidst these enriching experiences, I also encountered moments of somber reflection. The wedding fire in Baghdida on September 26 was a stark reminder of the challenges and uncertainties our people face. It underscored the importance of resilience and the need to look forward with hope and determination. No matter what, losing hope is the real disaster.

Supporting our Culture

This journey was not just a trip down memory lane; it was a clarion call for our community worldwide to reconnect with their roots and heritage. I urge everyone in our community, especially when times are relatively stable, to make this journey to the Nineveh Plain and see their ancestral villages. Visiting our ancestral villages and historical sites is a unique opportunity to reconnect with our roots, to understand the depth and significance of our culture, and to experience firsthand the land that has shaped our identity.

A significant part of protecting and preserving our culture is the revival and use of our native language, Sureth. Although I did not grow up speaking Sureth, I have been actively learning it and making a conscious effort to use it in my daily life. I have asked my family members to speak to me in Sureth instead of English, and I encourage others to do the same. So, if you see me on the streets, I prefer to be greeted in Sureth first. This is not just about language preservation; it is about keeping our unique identity alive.

The Nineveh Plain, with its storied history and resilient spirit, will always hold a special place for us. My visit to these places was not just a personal exploration; it was an affirmation of the rich, diverse, and historic culture that we possess. Moreover, this visit isn’t just about looking back; it’s also about looking forward. Our visit, our interest, and our involvement can play a crucial role in the rebuilding and development of these regions.

Another vital aspect of cultural preservation is considering investments in the development of the Nineveh Plain. I advocate for Chaldeans and Assyrians to consider investing nominal amounts for the development of our ancestral lands. This investment isn’t merely financial; it’s an investment in sustaining our culture, heritage, and the livelihood of our people over there. Just as other nations have transformed their landscapes and economies, we too can contribute to the prosperity and growth of our historic lands.

The transformation of the Nineveh Plain, akin to the growth seen in places like Singapore, Dubai, and Israel, may not happen overnight, but a dedicated, long-term commitment can bring about significant change over the years. If we start anew today, our children may have a homeland to visit; their children certainly will.

My journey to Tel Keppe and the Nineveh Plain was more than just a visit; it was a reawakening of my identity and a call to action. It is a journey every Chaldean and Assyrian should endeavor to make – to reconnect with our past, contribute to our present, and shape our future. The Nineveh Plain awaits, holding the keys to our collective heritage and the promise of our shared destiny.

I am currently working with others on developing a sustainable economic model for our communities in diaspora to economically support our people in the homeland. If you are interested in the revival, please contact me at AlexKarana@gmail.com. Let’s embrace this journey together.