Ancient ‘Processed’ Food
Jasob Bacall’s philosophy is simple and universal: “You have to be happy when you cook. Simply, if you are happy when you cook, the food will come out good.”
Jacob Bacall Revives the Timeless Dish of Gurgur
By Z.Z. Dawod
Middle Eastern cuisine has been steadily gaining in popularity in the United States since the 1970s. A growing interest in healthy eating has made dishes like hummus and falafel staples in cafés across the nation.
However, one particular dish — which has been a staple across the Middle East for literally thousands of years — remains far less known in the West: Bulgur, also spelled “burguhl” or “burghul,” is a grain dish that has not only held a special place in Chaldean homes for centuries, it has sustained the human race for millennia.
“In Sureth, it’s gurgur,” proclaims Jacob Bacall. Well-known throughout the Chaldean community as a real estate entrepreneur and author of several history books about Chaldeans, Jacob was highly energized on a recent Friday evening, blending his love for Chaldean culture with his passion for cooking, while preparing his own unique gurgur recipe.
The wine and stories flowed freely, as Jacob shared the critical role gurgur has played in Chaldean culture for many centuries, and in his own family, for many decades.
Ancient Origins
The word bulgur comes from Turkish, and refers to a grain that is “roughly crushed.” This Turkish term was borrowed from the Arabic burğul, which itself has roots in the Persian barğul or parğul, which means “crushed grain.”
In the Middle East, bulgur has been prepared for more than 4,000 years. It is referred to as gurgur by Chaldeans. Biblical references indicate that the food was prepared by various ancient civilizations including the Hebrews, Hittites and Babylonians.
Because this dish has been a staple throughout the region for so long, many believe it would have been a common dish to be eaten by Jesus. However, Jacob Bacall points out that, while “There is no proof that Jesus ate gurgur,” because the dish was so prevalent throughout the region, “the actual grain [went through] the same process back in Bethlehem [as it did] in Mesopotamia.”
The Original ‘Processed’ Food
Crushing grain with a stone has been practiced throughout the world for thousands of years.
However, unlike cracked wheat, which is simply raw wheat berries, gurgur is pre-cooked in a process that is referred to as “parboiled” — meaning partially cooked. Afterwards, the grain is traditionally spread out to dry in the sun, on the flat rooftops that are so common in Chaldean villages and throughout Iraq.
The wheat is then crushed into coarse pieces and sieved into different grades — coarse, medium and fine — and stored for various uses.
This drying process retained more of the grain’s rich nutrients and made it more resistant to pests, allowing it to be stored for longer periods. Thanks to the resulting longer “shelf life,” gurgur may arguably be considered to be one of the first “processed” foods.
Childhood Memories
While he cooks, Jacob recalls fondly the role this dish has played in his family and in Tel Afar, the northern Iraqi city he grew up in, until the age of ten.
“Growing up, you see family eating gurgur, shish kabob, pokota — it becomes part of family heritage,” he reminisces.
Jacob proudly declares that, “The biggest harvesting of this wheat was in Tel Afar. Why? It had perfect soil. Sun.” In turn, throughout the 1970s, the Chaldean village of Tel Keif was the “biggest exporter of bulgur in all of Iraq.”
There are numerous reasons why gurgur became a staple dish for Chaldeans. As Jacob points out, “Rice was not [as widely] available in the villages, more so in Baghdad.” Gurgur’s rich flavor is another reason for its popularity. “Gurgur has a nutty, earthy flavor, chewy unlike rice,” he describes. Gurgur also provided the energy needed for traditional manual labor. “Men working in the fields ate gurgur that sustained them all day, hardy and nutrient,” Jacob points out.
Evolving Traditions
“Back home, in the village, [it was] customary to serve [gurgur] at weddings and funerals alike,” Jacob remembers.
The meals were simpler then, limited to ingredients that were affordable and available and in the area. “Typically, back home, they could not afford to cook with meat,” Jacob shares. Surprisingly, truffles served as a common meat substitute. Prized as a delicacy in the West, when in season, truffles were widely available and were generally less expensive than meat.
As a growing number of Chaldean families have migrated to the United States and have made a home in the Metro Detroit area, traditions have evolved.
Meat is now more readily available, and family dinners are no longer limited to just one main dish. Increasingly, it is common to see gurgur served alongside with other staple dishes.
As Jacob prepares this beloved traditional dish, he proudly announces, “Gurgur has not made it to the fame or the mark of grilled kabob. Not yet.”
RECIPE
Gurgur
Recipe shared by Jacob Bacall
Ingredients
For The Meat
1 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter)
3 pounds meat (your choice of lamb chops, shanks or chuck roast)
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoon black pepper
4 cups water
For The Gurgur
4 cups gurgur
1 cup vermicelli noodles (fine)
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 cups water
Topping For The Gurgur
5 mushrooms, diced
1 medium onion, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoons black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon ghee
pinch of thyme
For The Salad
2 large cucumbers
4 tomatoes
1 lemon
1 can of chick peas
Handful of olives
Salt
Olive oil, for drizzling
Directions
Meat: If cooking with chuck roast, cut meat into two-inch squares and remove excess water for best browning results (pat dry with paper towel).
Melt ghee in pot over medium-high heat, then add meat. Add salt and black pepper to taste. Brown on all sides, then add water —covering at least one-inch over the meat. Cook on medium-low heat until tender.
Gurgur: Rinse gurgur in sieve with cold water until it runs clear, be sure to not soak for an extended time.
Bring four cups of water to a boil. Add vermicelli, salt and olive oil first, then the rinsed gurgur. Cover and cook on medium heat until all water has been absorbed, 10-12 minutes. Turn heat to low and simmer for an additional 10 minutes. If you prefer a more tender grain, cook a few minutes more.
Topping the Gurgur: Dice mushrooms and chop the onions. In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil and ghee, then add mushrooms, salt, pepper, and a pinch of thyme.
Sauté on medium-low heat for 5-7 minutes, using tongs to toss and turn. Once softened, add onions, and sauté together for an additional 5-7 minutes.
Salad: Dice tomatoes and cucumbers, add chick peas and olives. Drizzle olive oil and lemon juice. Salt is optional.
Serving Suggestion: Fill a serving platter with gurgur, add meat and top with the caramelized mushrooms and onions. Enjoy with a side of Iraqi salad — tomatoes, cucumbers, chick peas and olives, drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice. Add salt to taste.
Makes six servings.