Jewish Shrines in Iraq: A Shared Heritage
Daniel's Tomb in Kirkuk.
By Adhid Miri, PhD.
Part III
Parts One and Two of this series explored the history and plight of Iraq’s Jewish community, an indigenous minority that practiced its faith and civil rights amid conspiracies and persecution that ultimately forced its emigration to Israel. We also examined the displacement of Christians, Mandaeans, and Yazidis, who were scattered across the globe.
The Iraqi Jewish community, which thrived for more than 2,500 years in Mesopotamia, faced a near-total exodus due to persecution, political instability, discriminatory laws, racism, and authoritarian rule. Seven decades after their mass departure, the story of Iraq’s Jews remains complex and, even within the displaced community, often unclear.
After more than two and a half millennia in Mesopotamia, life became impossible for Iraqi Jews in the newly independent Iraq, caught in a vortex of local political forces and conflicting international ideologies. The fall of the Ottoman Empire, British colonial rule, and the rise of Jewish and Arab nationalist movements created both internal and external pressures, ultimately making the community victims of warring ideologies.
For modern Iraq, this historical catastrophe meant the loss of a rich cultural heritage, the displacement of educated and productive populations, the departure of vibrant citizens, and the deterioration of synagogues, schools, and other religious and social institutions.
In this third and final installment, we highlight five Jewish sites:
Meir Tweig Synagogue – Baghdad
In the crowded Batawieen neighborhood of Baghdad, the Meir Tweig Synagogue stands as a shining jewel—a place of worship and a testament to the resilience of the city’s Jewish community. Today, however, life has largely faded from this once-thriving synagogue. It is the only synagogue in Baghdad, rarely opens its doors, and has no resident rabbis. The faded brick building is distinguished only by a Hebrew inscription above its entrance.
The synagogue was built between 1942 and 1946 and named for Meir Tweig, a Jewish businessman from Baghdad. At the time, Iraq had a thriving Jewish population of about 150,000, most of whom lived in Baghdad. The synagogue served as a major center of worship, and its architectural splendor continues to captivate visitors, blending intricate detail, ornate design, and the rich, ancient character of the city.
The Meir Tweig Synagogue was not the work of a single individual but of Baghdad’s entire Jewish community. Its construction reflected a collective effort, with community members contributing resources, funds, and labor, while certain individuals took leadership roles in establishing this sacred site.
Entering the Meir Tweig Synagogue is like stepping into a world of sublime beauty and spiritual reverence. Towering two-story interior columns, intricately constructed, testify to the strength and resilience of the community they served. Sky-blue walls stretch seemingly into infinity, creating an ethereal atmosphere that transcends worldly concerns. Approaching the Torah Ark, one sees the meticulous craftsmanship in every detail, reflecting the skill of the artisans who built this venerable repository.
Intricate wood carvings invite worshippers to pause and reflect on the sanctity of the space. Within the synagogue lie treasures of immense cultural and religious significance, including Torah scrolls written on gazelle skin and preserved in carefully designed cabinets—symbols of centuries of spiritual heritage, resilience, and devotion. Marble plaques engraved with seven-branched candelabras and sacred psalms remind visitors of Baghdad’s Jewish community’s steadfast faith and perseverance amid the bustle of city life.
The synagogue is no longer in active use. In 2003, remaining members of Baghdad’s Jewish community attempted to protect it terrorist attacks destroyed synagogues in Istanbul. Following the U.S. invasion of Iraq that same year, fears of attacks persisted. Today, a small group of Jews, accompanied by Muslims, maintains the synagogue.
Shrine of Rabbi Yosee Al-Jalili – Baghdad
Also known as Al-Jaliliyya, this shrine is associated with Rabbi Yosee (Yosef ben Halafta), a second-century CE scholar from Galilee renowned for his teachings and contributions to Jewish law. Over the centuries, the site became a place of veneration for both Jews and Muslims, reflecting Baghdad’s layered religious history.
Ownership of the shrine remains disputed: Muslims regard it as the tomb of Sheikh Abdul Qadir al-Jilani, a revered Sufi saint, while Jews assert it commemorates Rabbi Yosee. Despite this disagreement, the shrine continues to draw visitors from both communities, symbolizing a shared reverence for spiritual heritage. Its enduring presence highlights the historical coexistence of religious groups in Baghdad and the city’s rich, intertwined cultural fabric.
Prophet Daniel’s Shrine – Kirkuk
Located in northern Iraq, Prophet Daniel’s Shrine is one of several sites across the Middle East and Central Asia traditionally associated with the biblical prophet. Historical accounts suggest that the original building was a synagogue, later converted into a Christian church, and eventually transformed into a mosque during the caliphate of Omar ibn Abdul Aziz. The current structure, notable for its two blue domes and a minaret decorated with Ottoman-era faience tiles, has suffered from years of neglect.
The shrine attracts Muslims, Christians, and Jews, all of whom venerate the graves of prophets Daniel, Hananiah (Chadrach), Mishael (Meshach), and Azariah (Abednego). Confusion over the exact identification of the graves reflects centuries of cultural and religious interweaving, highlighting the site’s layered history and its significance as a shared space of devotion across faiths.
Shrine of Benjamin – Diyala
Perched on a mountaintop near Qasr Shirin along the Iraqi-Iranian border, the Shrine of Benjamin is a revered site for members of the Benjamin tribe and local villagers. Known locally as “Fruit of Benjamin,” the shrine honors the biblical patriarch and serves as a focal point for prayer, offerings, and veneration. Its enduring presence reflects the deep-rooted connection of local communities to ancient biblical figures and highlights the continuity of religious tradition in the region.
Al-Habibiya Jewish Cemetery – Baghdad
Established in the early 20th century and relocated in 1975, the Al-Habibiya Jewish Cemetery is Baghdad’s primary Jewish burial site, containing more than 4,000 graves. The cemetery holds the remains of Jewish dignitaries, community leaders, and victims of political executions, preserving centuries of cultural memory. Tombstones, often adorned with the Star of David and inscriptions such as “,” provide a visual record of the community’s heritage and identity.
Though visits are now rare, the cemetery continues to be cared for by a few dedicated individuals, including Muslims who respect its sanctity. Some local women still visit specific graves seeking blessings, a practice rooted in longstanding cultural traditions. Al-Habibiya Cemetery remains one of the few tangible reminders of Baghdad’s once-thriving Jewish community, preserving the memory of a people whose presence in Mesopotamia stretches back over 2,600 years.
Reflections on a Vanished Community
At its height, Baghdad’s Jewish community numbered roughly 53,000 in 1908, about a third of the city’s population. For centuries, Jews, Christians, and Muslims coexisted peacefully, until political upheaval, persecution, and emigration fractured the community. Key events included the Farhud massacre of 1941, subsequent bombings in the 1950s, mass emigration to Israel, and the executions of alleged “Israeli spies” in 1969.
Decades of conflict—including the Iran-Iraq War, the invasion of Kuwait, international sanctions, and the 2003 U.S. invasion—further depleted the population. By 2003, the last synagogue in Baghdad had closed. Many Iraqi Jews also faced marginalization in Israel, often expressing their experience with the phrase: “In Iraq, we were Jews; in Israel, we are Arabs.”
Today, these shrines and cemeteries stand as silent witnesses to a once-civilized, integrated Mesopotamian Jewish community. They reveal the culture, customs, and daily life of a society largely swept away by the forces of modern Zionism, German Nazism, and Arab nationalism.
Although international efforts to preserve these sites have been limited, the remaining stones and structures testify to the enduring memory of a community that played a vital role in shaping Iraq’s history. They offer a bridge to the past, ensuring that the legacy of Baghdad’s Jews continues to be remembered.
Sources: Wikipedia; “Jewish Shrines in Iraq” by Dr. Wassan Hussen Muhaimid; Memories of Eden by Violette Shamash; The Jews of Iraq by Yacoub Youseef Koreya; Nuzhat al-Mushtaq in the History of the Jews of Iraq by Yousif Rizq-Alla Ghanimah; History of Iraqi Jews in the 20th Century by Meer Basri; Baghdad Yesterday: The Making of an Arab Jew by Sasson Somekh; images by Levi Clancy, Robert Philpot; Britannica, Jenifer Murtoff.